Cable System The cable electric floor heating system is a heating cable rolled on a spool that is laid out by the installer 3” apart across the area to heat. The wire is run back and forth across the area to heat, using the included plastic cable guides to secure it to the floor with the cold lead running up the wall to the electrical box. These heating systems will allow you to easily heat any shaped area including odd angles and turns. The RED HEATING ELEMENT CAN NOT BE CUT, so be sure to accurately measure the space you are heating. For assistance please see Tips for Choosing the Right Size System. This system must be completely embedded in a self-leveling mortar 1/4" to 1/2" thick. Use only polymer modified cement based mortars. The heating system should be installed on concrete or concrete backer board.
The included cable guides can be secured to the subfloor with screws, nails, adhesive or glue approved for use with the given subfloor. The cable guides can also be cut to length. Additional cable guides can be purchased.
The included installation monitor can help give you peace of mind while installing the floor warming system. Connect the system leads to the monitor prior to installation. The monitor will "scream" a warning in the event the heating element is cut or damaged allowing you to make any necessary repairs before the heating system is embedded in mortar.
THIS SYSTEM ALSO INCLUDES A THERMOSTAT OF YOUR CHOICE (PLEASE MAKE SELECTION ABOVE)
For more information on the thermostats we offer click from the options below.
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It's hard to write an objective review of a heating kit like this that you hope will last many, many years. So far so good, it is installed and working! The touchscreen thermostat is very nice, came out of the box with the right date and time already set (must have a small battery or capacitor or something). Very intuitive and shows power consumption over 1day/7days/1month/12months, including estimated costs. Easy enough to set schedule for floor heating, and acts as a nightlight and clock in the bathroom which is nice. Not sure if you can turn the light off, though I know you can adjust brightness of it. I put two sensors in the floor so there's a lower likelihood of a failed warming system due to a bad sensor. The cable tester included gave me peace of mind that I hadn't cut or damaged the resistance heating wire. I had trouble getting the cable guide strips to work properly for me, and there weren't quite enough for my application how I wanted to run the wires. I instead used small pieces of high temp metal foil tape to attach the cable to the backerboard. I used one single thick layer of thinset over this and laid the tile in one round, not a double layer, based on some guidance I'd found online. This was easier for my application, but not the best option and a little higher risk. If I were to do it again, I would absolutely buy some form of placement mat or Cable Membrane, I know there are a lot of options but it seems like an excellent option. It would be way easier as you get consistent height to level thinset over the wires without having to fight to keep them in place, and you don't have to fiddle with spacing decisions as much! This 35sq ft was just right if not a tiny bit excessive for a 5.5x8.5 (45sqft) bathroom, and I have a pedestal sink, clawfoot tub, and toilet, so ran under everything except the sink and toilet. Definitely do your calculations to figure out your heated area giving spacing from and not running under cabinets, vanities, and any permanent fixtures. The shielded heating lead came with a very long cable with the label stuck to the end of it. I wish the label were customer-attached, (or a second label available) so you could have a good readable label after fishing through conduit and cutting the length to fit.
A company that " GETS IT" . They provide what is required for each application , the website is great, and they are knowlegable about their product. Great products, Excellent Run company.